Tip of the Week ~
Lashing with Cane
When lashing with natural or bleached cane (or weaving a cane seat) look for the tiny nodules along the length. These nodules are where the thorns were removed (cane is the bark of the rattan plant, reed comes from the core of the plant). The cane should ALWAYS be pulled though with the high side of the nodules coming first. If it is pulled in the other direction, the nodules can catch and may rip or shred the cane.
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Happy New Year
So far so good as we enter the new year but it sure is cold in a lot of places. Good weaving weather. This Tip of the Week will cover one of my favorite tools.
Tip of the Week ~
One of my favorite tools is our Basket Shear.
The Original (Gardencut Bonsai) Basket Shear has solid red soft flex handles with incredibly sharp and strong, carbon-steel blades. Made in Japan. 2" blades, 8" overall length.
These shears will cut the thickest reed, harvest naturals or trim the thinnest hairs. Great for general household use ~ Bonsai, cutting flowers, trimming shrubs, small branches, etc. (only good for ribbon and soft materials when they are new). Stays sharp and lasts for years. Don't be fooled by cheaply made shears.
These shears make work easy. When they begin to dull, I sharpen them on a sharpening stone. A professional sharpening will make them like new.
I have cut down small trees with these shears. It takes several cuts, but for me they work much better than pruning shears. I keep a pair in the house, in the car, in the shop, etc. Love them!
Tip of the Week ~
The Original (Gardencut Bonsai) Basket Shear has solid red soft flex handles with incredibly sharp and strong, carbon-steel blades. Made in Japan. 2" blades, 8" overall length.
These shears will cut the thickest reed, harvest naturals or trim the thinnest hairs. Great for general household use ~ Bonsai, cutting flowers, trimming shrubs, small branches, etc. (only good for ribbon and soft materials when they are new). Stays sharp and lasts for years. Don't be fooled by cheaply made shears.
These shears make work easy. When they begin to dull, I sharpen them on a sharpening stone. A professional sharpening will make them like new.
I have cut down small trees with these shears. It takes several cuts, but for me they work much better than pruning shears. I keep a pair in the house, in the car, in the shop, etc. Love them!
Monday, December 28, 2009
Keeping Spokes in Place while Weaving Slotted Bases
Tip of the Week ~
Take a look at the slotted base before you soak your spokes. If the slot is very narrow, put you spokes into the slot while they are dry. If you soak them, they may not fit.
Take a wet sponge (almost dripping) and run the sponge over the good side of the reed (less snagging on the good side) up to the edge of the base.
Weave as usual.
If the slot is wide, go ahead and soak your spokes. Take them out of the water and wrap them in a towel to remove excess water.
If you are using a Weaving Table or Lazy Susan table (see previous post) you can just insert the spokes and begin weaving. I find that the Weaving Table is all I need to have control over the spokes.
BUT, if they still slide around too much for you, then try these ideas.
1) Place a tiny piece of twist tie over the end of the spoke and insert the spoke all the way into the base. Make sure that the twist tie is short enough so that it does not show. (Thanks to Venie Hinson for sharing this trick - see http://www.countryseat.com/basketclasses.htm#hinson - for Venie's spring class dates)
2) Put all your spokes in place and wrap a thin piece of string or a small size of round reed around the base and pull tight so that it slides into the slot, wedging the spokes in place.
3) Cut your spokes a little longer than the pattern calls for and bend the end over, crimping (squeezing) it together with a pair of pliers (bentnose pliers). Insert this crimped end into the slot.
If your spokes are still moving around A LOT after the first 3-5 rows are woven, they may be too far apart (you have too few spokes). You should have about 1/4" space between spokes when starting to weave. The first rows of a slotted base should be woven with a small size (3mm flat oval, 11/64" or 3/16" flat or flat ovals or twine with #2 round reed, etc.). After 3-6 rows of a smaller size, you can begin to use a larger size or work up to it with several rows of 1/4" or 7mm and then a wider size.
Remember - tension is what holds everything together when working with slotted bases. The first several rows must be woven tight up against the base and be very snug. No loose or sloppy weaving or your basket may not hold together correctly.
Slotted bases are a lot of fun once you become comfortable working with them. Try some of our patterns or kits - low shopper kit, beginner twill basket, color-blocked cabinboy basket pattern, mini shopping basket pattern, there are many, many more - try searching our online catalog with "slotted base" and then narrow the search by clicking on the Books, Patterns & Magazines link in the results.
Take a look at the slotted base before you soak your spokes. If the slot is very narrow, put you spokes into the slot while they are dry. If you soak them, they may not fit.
Take a wet sponge (almost dripping) and run the sponge over the good side of the reed (less snagging on the good side) up to the edge of the base.
Weave as usual.
If the slot is wide, go ahead and soak your spokes. Take them out of the water and wrap them in a towel to remove excess water.
If you are using a Weaving Table or Lazy Susan table (see previous post) you can just insert the spokes and begin weaving. I find that the Weaving Table is all I need to have control over the spokes.
BUT, if they still slide around too much for you, then try these ideas.
1) Place a tiny piece of twist tie over the end of the spoke and insert the spoke all the way into the base. Make sure that the twist tie is short enough so that it does not show. (Thanks to Venie Hinson for sharing this trick - see http://www.countryseat.com/basketclasses.htm#hinson - for Venie's spring class dates)
2) Put all your spokes in place and wrap a thin piece of string or a small size of round reed around the base and pull tight so that it slides into the slot, wedging the spokes in place.
3) Cut your spokes a little longer than the pattern calls for and bend the end over, crimping (squeezing) it together with a pair of pliers (bentnose pliers). Insert this crimped end into the slot.
If your spokes are still moving around A LOT after the first 3-5 rows are woven, they may be too far apart (you have too few spokes). You should have about 1/4" space between spokes when starting to weave. The first rows of a slotted base should be woven with a small size (3mm flat oval, 11/64" or 3/16" flat or flat ovals or twine with #2 round reed, etc.). After 3-6 rows of a smaller size, you can begin to use a larger size or work up to it with several rows of 1/4" or 7mm and then a wider size.
Remember - tension is what holds everything together when working with slotted bases. The first several rows must be woven tight up against the base and be very snug. No loose or sloppy weaving or your basket may not hold together correctly.
Slotted bases are a lot of fun once you become comfortable working with them. Try some of our patterns or kits - low shopper kit, beginner twill basket, color-blocked cabinboy basket pattern, mini shopping basket pattern, there are many, many more - try searching our online catalog with "slotted base" and then narrow the search by clicking on the Books, Patterns & Magazines link in the results.
Happy Holidays & Happy New Year
Whatever holidays you celebrate this year - we hope they are fun and filled with good friends and family! And plenty of time to weave :o)
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Pine Needle Basketry Book available in softcover
NOW IN STOCK and ready to ship - Judy Mallow's book: Pine Needle Basketry - From Forest Floor to Finished Project, now in softcover - Pine Needle Basketry - Softcover. Not yet available in stores - get it here first!
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Weaving with Slotted Bases
Happy holidays!
We're almost in the home stretch. Hope everyone has all their gifts woven. I'm working on the last one but also trying to keep up with the Shopper basket sales at Wanamakers General Store.
Tip of the Week -
Here is a tip for working with slotted wooden bases ( http://catalog.countryseat.com/slottedbasesanddividers.aspx ).
Put your base on a Weaving Table ( http://catalog.countryseat.com/woodenweavingtable.aspx ) or other revolving (Lazy Susan) board. When you begin weaving you can rotate the Weaving Table instead of rotating the base itself. This will help to keep your spokes from dragging on your worktable and pulling themselves out of position.
You can also use the grids (drawn on the surface of the Weaving Table) to line up and space the spokes.
More next week on keeping the spokes under control while weaving the first several rows on a slotted wooden base!
We're almost in the home stretch. Hope everyone has all their gifts woven. I'm working on the last one but also trying to keep up with the Shopper basket sales at Wanamakers General Store.
Tip of the Week -
Here is a tip for working with slotted wooden bases ( http://catalog.countryseat.com/slottedbasesanddividers.aspx ).
Put your base on a Weaving Table ( http://catalog.countryseat.com/woodenweavingtable.aspx ) or other revolving (Lazy Susan) board. When you begin weaving you can rotate the Weaving Table instead of rotating the base itself. This will help to keep your spokes from dragging on your worktable and pulling themselves out of position.
You can also use the grids (drawn on the surface of the Weaving Table) to line up and space the spokes.
More next week on keeping the spokes under control while weaving the first several rows on a slotted wooden base!
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