Monday, May 24, 2010

How Much Reed is Needed to Weave a Basket

Q: I want to weave a basket, but the pattern doesn't tell me how much reed I will need. How do I know?

A: Our print catalog and on-line catalog list the approximate number of feet per one pound coil for each size of reed. For example: 1/2" flat reed has approximately 185 feet per one pound coil.

The way to approximate how much you need for a particular basket is to take the number of stakes times the length and divide by 12 to get the number of feet needed. For example: 5 stakes at 20" and 7 stakes at 18" = approximately 19 feet. Now divide 185 by 19 = 9 baskets.

For each size of reed on the sides of the basket, take the number of rows of weaving, times the diameter of the basket (add 4 inches to the diameter for the overlap) divided by 12 to get the number of feet needed. If you do not know the diameter of the basket, take the base measurement and add together. For example: the base measures 10" x 12", so take 10" + 10" + 12" + 12" = 44" + 4" overlap = 48" approximate diameter.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Measuring Pre-woven Cane

Q: How do I know what kind and how much cane mesh do I need?

A: Pre-woven Cane comes in several styles and sizes. If the cane is a pattern with small octagon openings: measure the distance from the left side of 1 vertical strand to the right side of the next corresponding vertical strand - it should measure 3/8" (superfine open), 1/2" (fine open) or 5/8" (medium open).
Fine Box has small square openings and Close Woven has no spaces between the strands of cane.

You need to add 2 inches to each direction. Ex: if the opening of the wood measures 12" x 12" you should order a piece of cane that is 14" x 14".
New cane will not match the color of the old pieces still on the chairs, so you have to either redo all at the same time, or stain the new ones to match the old. If staining, use multiple thin coats until you like the color. Stain the top and bottom of the cane.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Tip of the Week - Mellowing Materials

Mellow a Material
Q: I want to work with cattails, the directions say to "mellow the cattails". What does this mean?

A: Mellowing is a way to make a material flexible without saturating it with water.

Lay cattails out on a plastic sheet and sprinkle them with water (or very quickly dip them into water), wrap the plastic around them and let them sit until they feel flexible. Cattails become waterlogged very easily and they will swell. This produces a loose product after they dry. Mellowing adds just enough water to become flexible.

Other materials can also benefit from mellowing.

The twisted natural grass rush should be dipped in warm/hot water and wrapped in a damp towel until the moisture seeps into the center and becomes flexible.

Try this with dyed reed to help keep the color from running.

Many natural materials like grasses and pine needles also benefit from mellowing.

Friday, April 9, 2010

Tip of the Week - Weaving Table

Our weaving table is wonderful for starting spoked bottom and double spoked bottom baskets. The table is 14" square with a 1" square grid marking. The grid also has 1" apart circles for measuring the rows of twining.
The spokes are laid out in a pin wheel fashion and a T-pin is inserted into the center and through the hole in the weaving table to hold them all in place. Then you can begin twining and be sure that all the spokes are spaced evenly. The table is mounted on a ball-bearing base so it spins as you work.
The surface of the table is treated with a waterproof finish.
The weaving table can also be used for laying out square or rectangle bases, no measuring, just use the 1" grid markings.
The table also works great for slotted bases. You can turn the the weaving table, instead of turning the base,while weaving the first couple of rows, without knocking any of the stakes out of the groove.

When working on a spoked bottom basket. If it is hard to get the T-pin through the reed spokes, turn the table over and tap the T-pin through the reed with a small hammer. Once the tip of the T-pin is through the reed, you can place the pin into the center hole of the weaving table. This way you will not put extra holes into the weaving surface.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Summer is coming

While spring has just sprung in our area, it's not too early to think about summer and what to do with the kids on those lazy summer days.

Weaving a construction paper basket:




Cut strips of construction or water color paper 1/2" wide by at least 14" long.

Using 2 colors will give the checkerboard effect seen in the photo.

Lay out a base of 12 spokes by 12 spokes, weaving over 1 / under 1. The horizontal spokes are all the same color, the verticle spokes are all the 2nd color.



Now you have a woven base with 4 sides, each side will have one color of spokes extending away from the base.

Gather all the spokes from one side. Bend them upwards and fan them so they are wider at the base and all the ends come together. Staple or glue and clamp the ends.



Repeat this on the other three sides.

Take 4 more strips of paper (2 groups of 2) and attach to opposite corners to make a handle that crosses in the center.



Form a bow with paper strips and attach to center of handles.

Let you imagination go to work. There are many ways this little basket can be altered and embellished.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Tip of the Week ~ Mitered Corners

Mitered Corners
Q: The last direction in making the base says "Using 1/4 flat, miter the base." We're not sure what "miter" means.

A: To "mitre or miter" a base is basically the same idea as twining the base. When you twine you use round reed, when you mitre you use flat reed.. It is merely a way of locking the spokes into place before turning up the sides and it also adds another 1/2" to the width and length measurements..

Simply weave over/under the spokes, when you get to a corner, you will "mitre" the reed, simply fold it over itself so the opposite side is up. Continue weaving over/under. Make the fold or right angle at each corner. You must select a "nice" piece of reed as two sides of the basket will have the right side out, two sides will have the wrong side out. However, since it is on the base, it is not that important.

This is also called a "locking row".

Friday, March 12, 2010

Just released - Vladimir Yarish's first DVD. Lesson 1 is the small Square-to-Round basket, the foundation basket. Get your copy at the introductory price of $9.95. DVD Lesson 1 Square-to-round birch bark basket