Weave around a Styrofoam cup.
Round reed can be inserted across the cup near the bottom. A base can be twined for a couple inches or start weaving up the sides right away, using the shape of the cup as a mold. After the weaving is finished and secured, break away the Styrofoam. Voila', a finished basket.
You can rewet the basket and push the bottom up so it sits flat.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Thursday, July 8, 2010
Country Seat Courier
To read the pdf version of our monthly newsletter - The Country Seat Courier - visit our Newsletter Page - http://www.countryseat.com/newsletter.htm . 6 months of newsletters are posted in case you missed one.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Tip of the Week - Chase Weave
Q: The pattern calls for the "weave and chase" method. Could someone explain this to me in simple terms?
A: Chase weave is weaving with two pieces so that one "chases" the other. This allows you to do a continuous weave without having to split a spoke. The weavers are traditionally the same size.
Taper each piece for about 6 inches. Start weaving with one piece on one of the long sides of the base. Stop when you get to the opposite side. Now start weaving with the other piece until you catch up with piece #1. You'll soon find what works best for you - weaving until you catch up to the other piece, keeping the pieces close together and weaving over a couple of spokes with each piece, or keeping the ends on opposite sides of the basket.
When you run out, it's ended the same way as a start/stop weaving. Overlap the ends of the old weaver and new weaver for 4 spokes, hiding both ends behind a spoke.
When you reach the top of the basket, taper each end again for about 6 inches and stop them about where you started. Now weave a rim row and use this to tuck your stakes over.
A: Chase weave is weaving with two pieces so that one "chases" the other. This allows you to do a continuous weave without having to split a spoke. The weavers are traditionally the same size.
Taper each piece for about 6 inches. Start weaving with one piece on one of the long sides of the base. Stop when you get to the opposite side. Now start weaving with the other piece until you catch up with piece #1. You'll soon find what works best for you - weaving until you catch up to the other piece, keeping the pieces close together and weaving over a couple of spokes with each piece, or keeping the ends on opposite sides of the basket.
When you run out, it's ended the same way as a start/stop weaving. Overlap the ends of the old weaver and new weaver for 4 spokes, hiding both ends behind a spoke.
When you reach the top of the basket, taper each end again for about 6 inches and stop them about where you started. Now weave a rim row and use this to tuck your stakes over.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Organizing Tool
Bob-EEZ Bobbins - Made from soft, flexible plastic, they are stackable, and have a patented locking feature which prevents threads, etc. from unraveling. Use multiple bobbins to secure loose ends as you work.
Large size great for round reed.
Large size great for round reed.
LARGE - 3 -1/2” diam.
Monday, May 24, 2010
How Much Reed is Needed to Weave a Basket
Q: I want to weave a basket, but the pattern doesn't tell me how much reed I will need. How do I know?
A: Our print catalog and on-line catalog list the approximate number of feet per one pound coil for each size of reed. For example: 1/2" flat reed has approximately 185 feet per one pound coil.
The way to approximate how much you need for a particular basket is to take the number of stakes times the length and divide by 12 to get the number of feet needed. For example: 5 stakes at 20" and 7 stakes at 18" = approximately 19 feet. Now divide 185 by 19 = 9 baskets.
For each size of reed on the sides of the basket, take the number of rows of weaving, times the diameter of the basket (add 4 inches to the diameter for the overlap) divided by 12 to get the number of feet needed. If you do not know the diameter of the basket, take the base measurement and add together. For example: the base measures 10" x 12", so take 10" + 10" + 12" + 12" = 44" + 4" overlap = 48" approximate diameter.
A: Our print catalog and on-line catalog list the approximate number of feet per one pound coil for each size of reed. For example: 1/2" flat reed has approximately 185 feet per one pound coil.
The way to approximate how much you need for a particular basket is to take the number of stakes times the length and divide by 12 to get the number of feet needed. For example: 5 stakes at 20" and 7 stakes at 18" = approximately 19 feet. Now divide 185 by 19 = 9 baskets.
For each size of reed on the sides of the basket, take the number of rows of weaving, times the diameter of the basket (add 4 inches to the diameter for the overlap) divided by 12 to get the number of feet needed. If you do not know the diameter of the basket, take the base measurement and add together. For example: the base measures 10" x 12", so take 10" + 10" + 12" + 12" = 44" + 4" overlap = 48" approximate diameter.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Measuring Pre-woven Cane
Q: How do I know what kind and how much cane mesh do I need?
A: Pre-woven Cane comes in several styles and sizes. If the cane is a pattern with small octagon openings: measure the distance from the left side of 1 vertical strand to the right side of the next corresponding vertical strand - it should measure 3/8" (superfine open), 1/2" (fine open) or 5/8" (medium open).
Fine Box has small square openings and Close Woven has no spaces between the strands of cane.
You need to add 2 inches to each direction. Ex: if the opening of the wood measures 12" x 12" you should order a piece of cane that is 14" x 14".
New cane will not match the color of the old pieces still on the chairs, so you have to either redo all at the same time, or stain the new ones to match the old. If staining, use multiple thin coats until you like the color. Stain the top and bottom of the cane.
A: Pre-woven Cane comes in several styles and sizes. If the cane is a pattern with small octagon openings: measure the distance from the left side of 1 vertical strand to the right side of the next corresponding vertical strand - it should measure 3/8" (superfine open), 1/2" (fine open) or 5/8" (medium open).
Fine Box has small square openings and Close Woven has no spaces between the strands of cane.
You need to add 2 inches to each direction. Ex: if the opening of the wood measures 12" x 12" you should order a piece of cane that is 14" x 14".
New cane will not match the color of the old pieces still on the chairs, so you have to either redo all at the same time, or stain the new ones to match the old. If staining, use multiple thin coats until you like the color. Stain the top and bottom of the cane.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Tip of the Week - Mellowing Materials
Mellow a Material
Q: I want to work with cattails, the directions say to "mellow the cattails". What does this mean?
A: Mellowing is a way to make a material flexible without saturating it with water.
Lay cattails out on a plastic sheet and sprinkle them with water (or very quickly dip them into water), wrap the plastic around them and let them sit until they feel flexible. Cattails become waterlogged very easily and they will swell. This produces a loose product after they dry. Mellowing adds just enough water to become flexible.
Other materials can also benefit from mellowing.
The twisted natural grass rush should be dipped in warm/hot water and wrapped in a damp towel until the moisture seeps into the center and becomes flexible.
Try this with dyed reed to help keep the color from running.
Many natural materials like grasses and pine needles also benefit from mellowing.
Q: I want to work with cattails, the directions say to "mellow the cattails". What does this mean?
A: Mellowing is a way to make a material flexible without saturating it with water.
Lay cattails out on a plastic sheet and sprinkle them with water (or very quickly dip them into water), wrap the plastic around them and let them sit until they feel flexible. Cattails become waterlogged very easily and they will swell. This produces a loose product after they dry. Mellowing adds just enough water to become flexible.
Other materials can also benefit from mellowing.
The twisted natural grass rush should be dipped in warm/hot water and wrapped in a damp towel until the moisture seeps into the center and becomes flexible.
Try this with dyed reed to help keep the color from running.
Many natural materials like grasses and pine needles also benefit from mellowing.
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